GE Oven Error Codes: Full List with Fixes

GE ovens and ranges (made by GE Appliances) show codes on models with electronic oven controls. This guide covers the GE oven error codes listed on GE’s own support page, plus the display messages that look like errors but aren’t. GE notes its list covers the most common codes, not every code on every past model.

GE oven error codes list

This table is based on GE’s official fault and function code list for ranges and wall ovens. GE groups several codes together when they point to the same part.

What do GE oven F codes mean?

An F code is a fault code: the electronic control found a problem with a part it monitors. GE groups them by the part involved, so the code tells you where the problem is even if you won’t fix it yourself. Only ovens with electronic controls show these codes.

• Keypanel codes (F0, F1, F6, F7) point to the touch pad you press to set the oven.
• Sensor codes (F3, F4) point to the temperature sensor inside the oven.
• Control codes (F5, F8, FF) point to the electronic control board.
• Door lock codes (F9, FC) point to the motorized lock used for self-clean.

Keypanel codes (F0, F1, F6, F7)

GE says F0, F1, F6 and F7 mean a problem with the keypanel, and usually the keypanel needs to be replaced. The keypanel is the touch pad you press to set the oven. GE’s guidance is to try a power reset first, then replace the keypanel if the code returns. iFixit’s repair guides also suggest a power reset as the first step for F0 and F1.

Our GE oven F7 code guide walks through the keypanel checks and reset in detail.

Most likely cause: a worn or damaged keypanel. Difficulty: moderate to pro. Time: 5 minutes to try the reset.

Temperature and sensor codes (F2, F20, F3, F4)

These codes point to the oven’s temperature system. F3 and F4 mean the sensor is faulty. F2 and F20 mean the oven got hotter than it should for an unknown reason.

F3 and F4: oven sensor fault

GE says these usually mean the oven sensor needs replacing. The sensor is the thin metal probe on the back wall inside the oven that reads the temperature. Without a good reading, the control can’t run bake or broil.

F2 and F20: over temperature

GE says F2 or F20 means the oven temperature has gone over a preset threshold for an unknown reason, and lists no home fix beyond calling a trained technician. Turn the oven off and let it cool. Don’t keep running a self-clean cycle if F2 shows up during one.

For a brand-neutral look at this code, see our oven F2 code guide.

Most likely cause: a failed oven sensor (F3, F4). Difficulty: moderate for a sensor; pro for F2. Time: 5 minutes to try the reset.

Electronic control codes (F5, F8, FF, F96, F97, F7X)

F5, F8 and FF mean an electronic control fault, and GE says the control usually needs replacing. F96, F97 and F7X are internal component faults, and GE says an internal part usually needs replacing. These are the “brain” of the oven, so there’s nothing to adjust from the outside.

Try one breaker reset. If the code comes back, book service. Control boards carry line voltage, so this isn’t a beginner repair.

Most likely cause: a failed control board. Difficulty: pro. Time: 5 minutes for the reset.

Door lock codes (F9, FC, Loc Door, Unlock Door)

F9 and FC mean a part has failed in the door lock circuit. The door lock is what keeps the door shut during self-clean. GE lists no home fix for F9 or FC beyond calling a trained technician.

Two related display messages have their own GE reset steps:

• Unlock Door: The door won’t unlock after a self-clean cycle. GE has a separate “Range – Oven Door Won’t Unlock” article with reset steps.
• Loc Door flashing: The lock light flashes when you didn’t choose self-clean. GE has a separate “‘LOC DOOR’ Flashes in the Display” article with reset steps.

Never force a locked oven door. During and after self-clean the oven is extremely hot, and the lock is there to protect you.

Most likely cause: a failed lock motor or lock switch. Difficulty: pro. Time: wait for the oven to cool, then call.

Fan and probe codes (F350, FD)

F350 means a problem with the upper cooling fan circuit or something blocking the fan. The cooling fan keeps the electronics from overheating. GE recommends calling a trained technician.

FD means a problem with the meat probe or its outlet (receptacle) in the oven wall. GE says the probe or receptacle may need replacing. If you have a probe plugged in, unplug it and check for damage to the cord or tip.

Let the oven cool before you touch the probe or the outlet. If the cord is pinched, melted or kinked, a new probe is the likely fix. If FD shows with no probe plugged in, the problem is more likely the outlet or wiring, which is a job for a technician.

Most likely cause: a damaged probe (FD) or a blocked or failed cooling fan (F350). Difficulty: easy for a probe swap; pro for the fan. Time: 5 minutes to check the probe.

Messages that aren’t faults (Bad Line, LOC, ERR, OFF, Sabbath)

Several GE displays look like errors but tell you about a setting or the wiring. Check this list before you call for service.

• Bad Line: Shows when power is applied but the oven is miswired. Have an installer or electrician correct the wiring; GE says the oven should then work normally.
• LOC: The Child Lockout feature is on, which prevents accidental use. Check your owner’s manual for how to turn it off on your model.
• ERR: You entered something the control won’t accept. Re-enter the setting correctly.
• OFF: You tried to set self-clean while the oven was too hot, or tried to bake or broil while it was still cooling after self-clean. Let it cool fully, then try again.
• Backwards C: Sabbath mode is on. No action is needed unless you want to turn it off.

Why do GE oven codes often show up during self-clean?

Self-clean runs the oven very hot and uses the motorized door lock, so it works the sensor, lock and cooling parts all at once. A weak part in any of those systems can show up as a code during or after a clean cycle. Several of GE’s own messages, like Unlock Door and OFF, are tied to self-clean.

If a code appears during self-clean, here’s what to do:

1. Don’t open or force the door. Let the oven cool on its own.
2. Write down the code.
3. If the door stays locked after the oven is cool, follow GE’s “Range – Oven Door Won’t Unlock” reset steps.
4. If the code returns after a breaker reset, stop using self-clean and book service.

GE’s OFF message is related but harmless. It means you tried to start self-clean while the oven was too hot, or tried to bake or broil while it was still cooling after self-clean.

What should you do while you wait for a GE repair?

GE says to keep the oven off at the breaker until it’s repaired. Don’t keep resetting and using the oven while an F code is active. On a range, you can switch the breaker on briefly to use the cooktop, then turn it off again.

Before the technician comes, have this ready:

• The full model and serial number from the rating label.
• The exact code, and when it appeared (baking, broiling, self-clean or idle).
• Whether the code cleared after a breaker reset, and how long until it came back.
• Whether it’s a gas or electric oven, and how old it is.

This helps the technician bring the right part, which can save a second visit.

Are codes different on gas and electric GE ovens?

GE’s code list applies to ranges and wall ovens with electronic controls, whether gas or electric. The codes describe the control, sensor, keypanel and lock, which both types share. Older ovens with only knobs and no digital display can’t show codes.

The difference is what’s behind the code. On a gas range, the oven also has a gas burner and ignition system. Never try to service gas parts yourself; call a qualified technician.

GE also notes the list covers only the most common codes. Some past and present models use codes not shown here. Search GE’s support site with your full model number for those.

How do you reset a GE oven?

GE’s reset is to turn off the oven’s circuit breaker or fuse for a minute or two, then turn it back on. GE says this sometimes clears the code. If the control doesn’t reset, the oven needs service.

When should you call a pro?

Call for service when an F code comes back after a breaker reset. GE says codes that don’t reset need a repair visit. Most F codes mean a part needs replacing.

• Any F code returns after you’ve reset the breaker.
• F2 or F20 appears, especially during self-clean.
• F9, FC or the door stays locked after the oven has cooled.
• F350 appears or you hear the cooling fan grinding or not running.
• Bad Line appears on a new install; call the installer or an electrician.
• You smell gas or burning wiring.

How can you keep GE oven codes from coming back?

You can’t prevent every part failure, but you can avoid some common triggers. These habits help:

• Keep spills and moisture away from the keypanel; wipe it with a damp, not wet, cloth.
• Don’t spray cleaner straight onto the control.
• Run self-clean only when the oven is empty and you’re home.
• Don’t leave the meat probe plugged in when you’re not using it.
• Keep the area around the cooling vents clear.

Frequently asked questions

Related error codes

• GE oven F7 code
• Oven F2 code
• Oven F10 code
• LG oven F9 error code
• All oven and microwave error codes